Go Higher

A bright full moon lit up the night sky as we left the base-camp refuge at 5am  to climb Mount Jebel Toubkal, 4,167 metres (13,671 ft) in Morocco - the highest point in the Atlas Mountains, the highest in North Africa and the highest in the Arab World.

It was bitterly cold. And there was uncertainty. Unseasonable snow here above 3,200 metres, meant that the upper reaches of the Toubkal river we had to cross was a raging torrent. Indeed no ascents had been made for the last couple of days due to its impassability. Would we be able to cross?

And how would we cope with the considerable snow and ice higher up which had turned a rugged but reasonable steep rocky climb into something much more serious? Even though we had hurriedly grabbed crampons yesterday, down at the village of Imlil at 1,800 metres where we had set off along the 7 hour trek to the refuge, most of the team had never used them before.

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Also we were unsettled, as two of our team had decided to stay behind at the refuge. It was disappointing, but our lovely youngster, 13 yr old Soma, had been vomiting with altitude sickness. And her gorgeous Mum, Emma, who had wonderfully organised the whole trip, had opted to stay with her. In fact we all were suffering with the altitude. I was feeling light-headed and nauseous and had been unable to eat any breakfast. And nobody had managed more than snatches of sleep.

But the purpose of our mission was strong. We were carrying 847 peace messages from individuals, many from children. And we had crystals, vital to help bring in peace light for the planet, to place at the summit. This drove me on with the quiet certainty that there was a job to be done. And that we would do it. 

Already we had spoken out some of the messages on the lower reaches of the mountain at a tiny cafe where we had rested from the slog of the trail and the watchfulness for marauding mules carrying wide loads of climbers’ equipment like food and sleeping bags which threatened to push us over precipices.

Part of me was excited and elated that we carried the energy of peace. But I still felt nervous and scared as we reached the river and peered through the dark at the two pointy boulders we had to balance on mid-torrent. I pulled the weight of my rucksack tighter to me, slung the straps of my sticks onto my wrists and grabbed the welcome hand of our guide Mustapha… whew! Safely across. But not without wet socks and boots. Not clever in snow conditions. But across. The five of us (four hunky, open-hearted and thinking men the age of my sons) and me the granny, (according to guide Mus, at 76 the oldest to climb Toubkal) were across.

Then began the hard work. Steep climb. Mostly over boulders to begin with. Focus on every footstep. Avoid the ice and loose gravel. Extra careful on the snow. Good balance. Burning muscles to the test. Hold the light from the head torch for the two of our team without one. Puff and pant to take in the oxygen.  In no time at all we were overheating and sweating and stopping to take layers off.

After two hours our efforts were rewarded by the arrival of dawn. But important to not risk losing concentration and enjoy the stunning views all around. Keep holding the focus. Follow the steps of Mus - our smiley young man, fit and competent with a big warm heart. I felt so grateful that we had been given the perfect guide in whom we could all trust.

We could now see that the terrain opened out to a wide snowy slope reaching up to a ridge high above us. The summit waited elusively somewhere beyond. We passed a small team who had stopped to don crampons. A lady offered me a mint and kindly unwrapped it for me and put it in my mouth. Wow! What a difference a small injection of sugar made. As did the sip of tea which Greg gave me from the back of Simon’s rucksack. Looking out for each other was not only beautiful…but crucial. Like in normal life, but here accentuated.

It seemed to take forever to the ridge. In fact it was only four and a half hours from the refuge. I was panting hard and hyperventilating, causing tingling limbs. And running on will-power. And threatening to myself that this was the last time I would do a climb. Time to become a proper granny and take up knitting! But at the ridge we could see a far distant triangle high on the horizon to the north. The summit! Others were coming down with satisfied grins on their faces. We were within half an hour of reaching it. But here the wind was biting unmercilessly. Daz, Greg, Simon and John all had seriously cold hands. My feet were numb and I was really cold in spite of thankfully having brought a decent duvet jacket and mitts.

Mus, lovely as ever, led us watchfully and steadily up the steep summit ridge. Across sloping snow slopes strewn with rocks and better-not-to-look-at drop-offs. Zig-zagging to flatten the snow beneath our steps. Then the final slope became easier. And with tears in my eyes I realised we were there. Our goal had been reached. The highest point in the Arab World. Toubkal, meaning higher than the highest. And there were loving hugs from each of the team. Almost disbelief that we had no further to go. The sun here surprisingly gave some warmth. And in every direction there were views to die for. Beneath streams of cloud, dark mountain ridges leading out to distant planes and deserts… and beyond across our stunning planet. Wow! Wow! Wow! Was there ever such a moment of fulfilment… of deep joy… of gratitude…

But there was work to be done. Mus shimmied up the triangle like a Moroccan goat and tied the prayer flags to the highest point. The wind came and blew them higher, sending out blessings of peace far and wide… Then the crystals were gently placed and well covered so they would never be disturbed and could carry out their job of receiving and transforming light to be sent out for peace across the earth. 

And the World Peace Flame essence, brought in a tiny candle, was set - brought from North Wales where it burns eternally.

Also importantly, the peace messages, carried in a little Tibetan bag imbued with compassion, bringing the love of all those who had inscribed them.

Together we held peace on Earth.

Then - after the long plod downwards, completing a 14 hour marathon trek for that day, and some welcome sleep at a beautiful Berber mud-brick house - our team came together, hearts in harmony, on the lower slopes of the mountain, facing the high summit and spoke out the remaining peace messages.

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High beings of light received the messages. A cloudburst of liquid light surrounded the summit. Ribbons of peace light now shine out across the world…

Could it be that we can all go higher...

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For peace…

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A huge warm thank you to all who sent peace messages and pledges. These were the power behind the journey… and are helping the world come together with awareness, action and love.

And the biggest warm thank you to the wonderful peace team, Emma, Daz, Soma, John, Greg and Simon, along with Mustapha and assistants Mohamed and Hassan…  for the giving of their hearts… for support, friendship, photography and love… 

Peace Messages:-

“Our greatest challenge is to find peace within ourselves” EMMA

“Peace begins with a smile” SOMA

‍“Let’s hope one day humanity will stop fighting war with war, and celebrate the wonderful diversity of our planet’s people and peoples” JOHN

“If you hold really still and already know it’s there, you can see it…” SIMON

“I hope that everyone can find peace within themselves so that peace can proliferate throughout the world” DARREN (DAZ)

“I wish for people to transcend generational pain and hatred and find love and forgiveness and build a harmonious future for everyone” GREG

“May the Toubkal Peace Climb send light out across the planet for peace. May we all tune into the crystals atop the mountain… that the light may shine for peace in the Middle East… for the realignment of the Atlas bone of humanity… and for the coming together of nations. Peace on Earth!!” TESS

For peace…

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For peace...

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